AUSTIN (KXAN) – The New York Times said Texas barbeque is in a “golden age,” with emerging pitmasters bringing dynamic flavors from different cultures, thus reinvigorating the classic cuisine. NYT made a list of 20 Texas barbeque restaurants that best reflect the new generation of pitmasters and chefs, which included five Central Texas joints. 

One of the authors, Brett Anderson, traveled to Texas seven times to seek out the best barbeque haunts across the state, and the second author, Priya Krishna, is a Dallas native, according to NYT. 

“A renaissance in Texas barbecue has transformed what was once a hidebound tradition into one of the country’s most dynamic vernacular cuisines, changing the landscape of American barbecue in the process — and turning Texas into the country’s ultimate barbecue destination,” the authors wrote. 

Barbs-B-Q

Barbs has only been operating for a couple of months, but the Times reported its arrival was hotly anticipated. The restaurant is owned by two former vegans and a relatively inexperienced chef but “in its first month, Barbs’s food met its lofty expectations,” NYT wrote.

“The food showcases the honed technique of precocious talents with influences from Brownsville, the Texas border town where [two of Barb’s owners] grew up,” the Times said.

Central Texans can try it out on Saturdays at 11 a.m. at 102 E. Market Street in Lockhart.

Distant Relatives 

The Times wrote that Damien Brockway left a career in fine dining to open Distant Relatives, a food truck in southeast Austin, in Aug. 2020. Brockwat incorporates in his food the influences of the African diaspora and the work of pitmasters, particularly those from Latin America, per the Times. 

“We are inspired by the textures, flavors, heritage and narrative of the African diaspora within the United States and as such employ strong elements of Pecan and mixed hardwood smoke, heightened spice profiles, traditional preservation methods and a nose-to-tail, root-to-stem approach utilizing products from our local food system,” wrote Distant Relatives on its website. 

Distant Relatives is located at 3901 Promontory Point Drive in southeast Austin. 

Kemuri Tatsu-Ya

Opened by Tatsu Aikawa and Takuya Matsumoto in 2017, Kemuri Tatsu-Ya is not necessarily your typical Texas barbeque joint. The chefs call their restaurant a “Texas Izakaya” – a casual bar found in Japan – and incorporated influences from Japanese cuisine and Texas barbecue to create their menu. 

“Texas barbecue has always been about the blending of cultures,” Aikawa told the NYT. 

Kemuri Tastu-Ya is located in East Austin at 2713 E 2nd St.

LeRoy and Lewis Barbeque 

LeRoy and Lewis Barbeque has operated in the Cosmic Coffee and Beer Garden lot since 2017.

“Since then, we’ve been dedicated to serving our community by making excellent, inventive barbecue and supporting our local ranches by sourcing all of our meat from small, responsible purveyors in Texas,” the LeRoy and Lewis web page reads. 

NYT wrote that LeRoy and Lewis bring New American vibes to Texas barbeque. 

You can find Leroy and Lewis currently at 121 Pickle Road, but they told the Times a brick-and-mortar location will open soon. 

Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ

Valentina’s blends new Texas barbeque with the flavors of the food owner Miguel Vidal grew up eating in San Antonio.

“The business, which Mr. Vidal runs with his wife, Modesty, helped bring Mexican influences into the Texas barbecue mainstream,” the Times wrote.

Vida started Valentina’s as a food truck in 2013 but opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Buda in June.